6th Scale Diorama Workshop ( Mar 29 – April 1)
Been daily setting up 10 models, and photographing ( Rebel Ti 7: 24 MP). After two daylong sessions. I have found a sustainable frequency, to persevere, and get the maximum use out of 6th scale models – for improving my panels, angles, perspectives, and anatomy ( body proportion, mechanics*).
- Obviously, not perfect – since 6th scale models, even TB League, & Jiao – which are fully poseable and articulating at every joint; can’t replace natural anatomy. However, in general, the average artist, has certain ways of drawing, that, using a 6th scale model, can aid in maintaining proportion of pelvis, and bust, when in poses, where legs are bent, in relation to torso; and foreshortening ( the perspective from looking down at a standing figure, or tilted, three fourths front view. ). Especially, the foreshortening of the head sculpts. I never used 6th scale models for reference before. When I read that top comic bookartists used them, in addition to live models, I realized, it would be a proactive step, to continue to educate, and approach this as a learning experience. (Not letting the awkwardness, or macho attitude, inhibit, using, essentially, dolls, to improve drawing panels; by having a 3-d item, that can be posed, photographed, and made to match panels; rather, than search for existing photos/illustrations, and arrange then to work as sequential panels.
- I am finding they are delicate – the double edge of having fingers that can squeeze like a vice grip, is that when popping off the hard plastic pieces from the steel skeleton – your gripping hand can easily deform the plastic skin.
- Dropping, or a standing model falling from a 2 foot platform, can cause the paint on the forehead to chip off, and jostle the insert piece from the head sculpt ( requiring super glue to fasten; and mixing acrylic paint to match the skin, and carefully apply the paint*
- * I want to look into it online, before I touch up the skin on a headsculpt, to avoid making it worse.
- Costumes, can be very difficult and frustrating to put on a model – one model, being fitted for a one piece costume, can take over an hour. Because the plastic has to be gently plied, as the super tight costumes ( are delicate, and easily broken), are fragile, and can tear, (seams can come loose). And wearing nitrile exam gloves, to prevent skin oils from damaging the plastic, make for slippery, contact with the miniature, straps, and ribbons, and little head pieces.
- Shoes that don’t fit, require, changing the feet pieces, to a shoe horn shape. And easily come off.
- So far, I have found a better arrangement for my diorama base platform. And discovered, by trial and error, some things to be careful about, to not damage the models, unnecessarily.
- Procedurally: it is best to have the models dressed, posed, and all the scene items prepared, so that when setting up, no unnecessary tasks, delay taking photos, as the natural light, enters the diorama table area, for a brief period, of direct sunlight, at an angle through the porch from 8:00am – 9:35am; creating strong shadows, and max brightness and contrast. Then from 11:25 am on , ambient light is good ( Improved with two lamps ) – all the photos look about the same from noon through 5pm, as the daylight declines. The photos at night also look good, after 7pm to about 9pm, with two lamps. After that, night bugs, humidity, moisture, are detrimental.